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         Deep Artificial "Jumper" TechniquesBy Capt. Phil Cadez
 
        Walleye fishing has been the main 
        attraction to Lake Erie for the past 30 years.  The lakes made a super comeback even though alien species have 
        been introduced into the lake.  Zebra muscles, white perch and now the
        gobi have 
        infiltrated the lake.  
        The only fishing that has remained constant over the last half century 
        has been the smallmouth bass fishery. Lake Erie has always been one of the top 10 
        smallmouth areas in North America. 
        It’s many limestone islands and sunken 
        reefs provide ample habitat for lots of bronzebacks. 
        Even with the threat of gobies taking over the rocky bottom of 
        our lake, these sportfish will survive.  
        Many guides have had big smallies spit out 
        gobies in their cooler so we know they’re eating them. 
         Each year I see more and more bass clubs 
        have their tournaments on Lake Erie.  In the spring the 
        bass islands have bass boats galore zipping up and down their 
        shorelines.  The anglers are the “purist”, the true 
        sportfishermen when they must only use artificial baits. 
        Most practice catch and release and don’t want to hurt our 
        fishery. 
         Lake 
        Erie, being a shallow lake, will warm to over 76 degrees in August and 
        early September.  The “bronzebacks” 
        seek cooler water near the drop-offs and will sometimes go as deep as 35 
        feet.  It’s harder to fish artificial at deeper depths unless you know 
        what you’re doing.  I 
        would venture to say that most anglers use 
        softcraws because it’s easy and most effective.  
         I’m 
        going to focus on the ardent die hard artificial bass fishermen. 
        These “purist” anglers say that it’s like bow hunting for deer 
        instead of using a rifle or shotgun. 
        It might be the satisfaction of hooking on a big “jumper” in keep 
        water with an artificial bait and then knowing he’s going to surface 
        shortly trying to spit out this bait.  I’m going to deal with the depths 
        of 20 feet or more and relate our successes with the methods we’ve come 
        up with. 
        Any of the bass islands or 
        Pelee Island in Canada have
        ideal 
        structure to start working your magic. 
        Try and look for 2 to 4 feet changes in depth on uneven rocky 
        bottoms.  If the drift is slow because the winds are light and variable 
        there’s no need to anchor.  Have a 
        throwable
         marker ready to 
        throw if you found a pocket of active “smallies”.  
        This will enable to you cruise slowly around and start the drift again. 
         Tackle is up to the 
        individual .  Bass 
        fishermen prefer bait casting reels spooled with 10 or 12 lb
        line . 
        The composite rods are usually light but have some backbone. 
        Most of the local’s prefer open face spinning tackle spooled with 
        6 to 10 lb line.  The 
        rods are shorter thought, ranging from 5 to 6 feet in length. 
        A few sportfishermen rely on a mini
        openfaced reel with an 
        ultralight rod for more fun. 
         The most effective 
        artificial  bait 
        that you can use at depths over 20 feet is the tube and salt body jigs. 
        There’s also variations of power grubs but 
        most will stick with tube jigs.  I know there’s lot’s of different 
        plastic bodies you can place on a jig but let’s 
        work  with the easiest.  The tube jig is easy to use and will 
        hang up far less than other conventional baits.  
        It’s really only about a plastic tube that covers the head of a special 
        jig head which looks like a hook with the lead imbedded threw it. 
        The lead is narrow so the body will slip on easily.  Once the 
        tube is placed over the jig head the only thing exposed are the eye to 
        tie on your line and the end of the hook that’s protruding from the open 
        end of the tube. 
         Colors vary according to water clarify 
        and the fish’s natural bait.  Since smallmouth love crawfish, anything 
        remotely resembling this crustation will 
        give you an edge.  
        Popular colors are pumpkin (brown), chartreuse, plum, watermelon (a blue 
        variation), black, silver and the list goes on. 
        Salt jigs are the same as tube jigs but they’ve been impregnated 
        with a salty taste for the fish.  Most of these tube jigs are between 
        2-1/2 to 4 inches.  After 
        you’ve pulled the tube over the jig head, tie the line directly to the 
        exposed eye of the hook.  
        Don’t use a swivel.  A few anglers prefer these small clips but using a 
        big swivel will be counter productive. 
         Since you’re mainly concerned with 
        working the bottom, there’s only a few 
        presentations.  If your 
        drift is moderate to slow you can drag the jig on the bottom popping it 
        every once and a while to give a jumping effect. 
        In 20 foot of water you might use anywhere from ¼ oz to ¾ ox jigs 
        depending on the speed of the drift. 
        Always be ready, don’t leave much slack when you’re working the 
        jig.  Lot’s of times the fish will pick it up on the 
        drop.  Any bumps you might get – set the hook fast and keep the tip of 
        the rod up.  Have your 
        drag adjusted so the fish can run if it wants to. 
        Never horse a smallmouth especially if you find out he’s got some 
        shoulders.  Big fish stay 
        in the water because they’re smart or you’ve made dumb mistakes.  Don’t 
        panic – take it easy.  I’ve seen so many trophies get away because the 
        angler got excited. 
         If the drift is moderate and you prefer 
        casting instead of drifting, throw your line parallel to the drift. 
        You can then let it hit the bottom and retrieve the jig on a 
        swing cast which will keep you near the bottom longer. 
        This will also enable you to control your speed of
        retrieve  parallel to the drift.  On these 
        swing cast you might want to go with a little heavier jig head which 
        will let you cast farther and work the bottom longer. 
         You can drift over a structure that 
        you’ve found and marked with a throwable 
        bottle or ring buoy or you can anchor over this hot spot for a while.  
        Having a long anchor line will let you feed out the line and deep 
        working the same area only down wind of your hot spot. 
         If you want to try something different 
        then a tube jig you can throw a beetle spin, road runner type lure. 
        It’s just a grub body with a exterior 
        small spinner.  Rattle trap lures will get down to where the fish are.  
        Any bodybait that resembles a small fish 
        will work if  it has a  large lip on it.  
        This will get it down deeper as you pull the bait in. 
        Some anglers use a vertical jig vibrating bait such as a cicada, 
        sonar or silver buddy.  Gold, silver and chartreuse will work the best. 
         Check out my website at: 
        www.cadez-charters.com |